Western China to Pakistan (September 1998)

China/Pakistan border -- China

China/Pakistan border -- Pakistan.

In the last half of my 20's I had visited the Amazon and the Galapagos, floated down the Grand Canyon unguided, climbed Kilimanjaro, and finished the New York City Marathon, the Escape from Alcatraz Triathlon and an Ironman.  When I reached 30, I wanted to give a final kick in the ass and go on a grand trip, something I had dreamed about for years and years.  It was time to ride the Karakorum Highway, the southern branch of the Silk Road between Kashgar, China, and Islamabad, Pakistan.

After I booked an open jaw flight of Tokyo-Beijing-Urumqi-Kashgar for inbound and Islamabad-Tokyo for outbound, and right before my departure, the U.S. shot a missile into Afghanistan and immediately a travel warning was announced for Pakistan.  All of a sudden, my destination became a hot zone.  Most my friends said "I wouldn't go if I were you" and tried to talk me out of it.  I of course ignored, believing everything would be fine.  I was right and I was glad I went.

I did many things for the first time on this trip:  It was the first time I took my bike to a foreign country; it was the first time I went on a multi-day bikepacking; it was the first time I rode over a 4000+ meter pass; and it was the first time I stood on the Silk Road.  At the age of 30, I felt young and excited.

There were a few minor glitches:  the front fork of the bike was mangled when I unpacked the bike and I had to perform a "repair" by manually bending back the piece of metal; I got stranded at high altitude due to miserable fever and diarrhea; my MSR water filter broke; and I ingested giardia.  Giardia wasn't fun, giving me the uncontrollable loose bowels for many months after the trip.  In the end, however, the trip gave me more confidence in self-endurance.

The scenery along the Karakorum Highway was way better than expected, with the Taklamakan Desert in the north and the Karakorum Range in the South.  The villages I stopped along the way, especially in Pakistan, were hospitable, serving excellent vegetarian dishes for dirt cheap price.  I met many travelers and a few cyclists on the way; most evenings were spent hanging out with like minded people. 

I was lucky to have only one flat tire throughout the entire journey, but it happened near dusk when I was only 15 miles outside of a major town.  I had planned to arrive in town that night, so I was not carrying any extra food.  I still remember the night spent in tent, unable to sleep due to hunger and imagining a big greasy cheese burger.  I was desperate then, but now it seems all too funny.

Northern Pakistan is one the most beautiful places I've visited.  I will definitely want to go back, hopefully by bicycle again.